Mastering the Art of Miniature Trees
By Robin Sweetser
Photography by John W. Hession
|
|
Through the ancient art of bonsai, plants are dwarfed and trained to mimic their full-sized counterparts in the landscape.
One of the oldest horticultural pursuits, bonsai is thought to have originated in China-where it is called pen-tsai-during the Han Dynasty (206 BC-AD 220). Buddhist monks brought the practice with them to Japan, and when trade with Japan opened up in the mid-nineteenth century, bonsai was introduced to the Western world.
The Japanese word bonsai is derived from the Chinese pen-tsai; both literally mean "tray planting." Shallow planting-and other techniques such as pruning, defoliation, grafting and root reduction along with wiring trunks and branches into the desired shapes-help the bonsai artist create the look of a mature tree in miniature. A relatively young plant can give the illusion of great age, and with proper care, a bonsai can last for centuries. The Larz Anderson Bonsai Collection at the Arnold Arboretum in Boston has some bonsai trees from the eighteenth century, including a hinoki cypress from 1737. In Tokyo, the Imperial Palace Collection has a five-hundred-year-old pine (Pinus pentaphylla).
Bonsai artist Myrla Bryant of DBMB Bonsai and Saikei in Keene was drawn to bonsai in her twenties while living in the Philippines. During her time there, she was fascinated by the beauty and grace of these plants; studied under local Bonsai Master Mario Estiva; and eventually developed a thriving business growing and selling bonsai from her home in San Pablo City.
"I discovered that bonsai teaches mindfulness, attentiveness, creativity, discipline and purpose in a quiet and serene manner," Myrla says.
She and her husband, David, brought their combined fifty years of experience in bonsai to Keene where they have a bonsai studio open to the public, teach classes and hold workshops to share their love of this horticultural art.
Indoor vs. outdoor bonsai
You can transform almost any woody-stemmed perennial, tree or shrub into a bonsai planting, but many are not meant to be grown indoors. Most bonsai are winter-hardy evergreens and deciduous plants that need to be grown outdoors and require a period of cold dormancy during the winter. By using tropical plants, bonsai can be indoors year-round. Tropicals don't need a dormant period, and they tolerate the low light conditions and poor humidity found in most homes. If you are purchasing a ready-made bonsai, ask if it is intended for indoor or outdoor culture.
"The common jade plant is easy to train as a bonsai," Myrla says. "It is too soft to wire, but you can shape it by pruning and removing the new shoots to get the look you want."
She also recommends all kinds of ficus. "They are good plants for indoor bonsai because they maintain their foliage year round," Myrla says.
To keep an established tree in proportion, Myrla suggests defoliating it every two years in July. That way, in August, a new flush of smaller leaves will appear. "This allows the trunk to thicken while miniaturizing the leaves and preserves the natural balance of the tree on a miniature scale," Myrla says.
She also recommends sand pear (Prunus pyrifolia), which bears fruit, and the tea plant (Camellia sinensis). She has grown pyracantha, a broad-leaved evergreen shrub, as an indoor bonsai, too. "It does well indoors in bright light, keeps its foliage year round and produces red berries," Myrla says.
Some other tropicals that lend themselves to training as indoor bonsai are azalea, bougainvillea, eugenia (dwarf brush cherry), carissa (natal plum), gardenia, jacaranda, jasmine, leptospermum (tea tree), serissa (snow rose), punica (pomegranate), trachelospermum (confederate jasmine), Chinese elm, olive and rosemary.
Basic training for your bonsai
Ancient tradition required people to return to nature to find a potential bonsai and symbolically find themselves as well. Nowadays, we can just head to the nursery or greenhouse for a likely looking plant. If you are feeling more ambitious, you can start one from seed or a cutting.
Myrla says a bonsai is created to be seen from all sides, but it does have a face or front view. "The face shows your trunk and the flow of the branches. The back should be fuller to create the illusion of depth," she explains. "Look at the plant, decide what shape you want and cut from the bottom upward to show the trunk."
The right tools are essential to do a good job. "You need the necessary tools to make the cuts look natural," David says.
Today, Myrla is working to develop a root-over-rock macrocarpa ficus. It took four months just for the roots to grow, and the trunk and branches are still wrapped with wire to train them into the appropriate shape. "Patience is the key," she says. "You can't make it in an instant."
The shape of your bonsai will depend on the material you are using and your creativity in unlocking the beauty of the tree. "Bonsai rules used to be strict, but now they have eased up and you can do what you like as long as it has a trunk, which is the soul of the bonsai," Myrla says.
The tree or mini-landscape should look good to you and have a peaceful, therapeutic effect when viewed.
Caring for your miniature masterpiece
"A healthy bonsai plant needs water, light and consistent care," David says. He recommends checking the soil daily to see if it is dry. "To do this properly, you should feel just below the topsoil line to determine if the soil is no longer moist."
There are several ways to water your bonsai. David recommends spraying the soil with a regular plant sprayer to first moisten it, and then watering gently with a watering can or hose sprayer until the soil is saturated. Let the excess water drip out, tipping the pot to help it drain. You can also immerse the pot in water up to its rim after first spraying the soil. Let the plant soak until it stops sending up air bubbles. Remove the pot from the sink and let it drain as described earlier. Do not let your bonsai sit in a saucer or tray of water because the plant could soak the water up, eventually rotting the roots. "More bonsai are killed by improper watering than all other causes combined," says David.
From April through September, fertilize your bonsai twice a month; cut back to once a month from October through March. David recommends using a bonsai-specific liquid fertilizer at half-strength; organic bonsai fertilizers can be used at full strength.
To grow bonsai successfully indoors, Myrla puts the plants where they get bright light but not direct sun. "Don't put them near the window glass or a heating unit, as they could dry out or burn. They also need good air circulation," she says. "Once the bonsai is established, it needs repotting every two years. A younger plant grows faster and sends out roots faster. An older plant may need repotting only every five years or so."
Myrla recommends pruning the roots every time you repot. "When the roots are newly cut, the plant needs to be in the shade while recovering, and never fertilize until the plant becomes well established to avoid burning the newly cut roots," says Myrla.
Your living bonsai sculpture will continue to grow and change over time. You can keep its shape by snipping out the growing tips. "Be attentive to your bonsai," Myrla says. "Plants will tell you they are sick. If they are lush and beautiful, they are doing well."
Your bonsai tree will reflect the care you have given it and will beautify your surroundings for years to come.
