Fresh Off the Boat

When referring to our food supply chain, “local” and “sustainable” are today’s buzz words. Nowhere is that truer than in the fish and seafood industry, where in many cases a consumer is guaranteed access to fish or seafood that is available to purchase shortly after it is pulled from the water. Such is the mission of Capt. Jamie Hayward, a fisherman for 30 years who not only helms his fishing boat, the F/V Heidi & Elisabeth, but also operates Heidi Seafood Services. Along with his sister, Heidi, and wife, Jolyn, he launched The Daily Haul, a mobile fresh fish and seafood market serving many communities in southern New Hampshire, southern Maine and northern Massachusetts. Headquartered in Portsmouth, the small company’s founding premise, in reaction to COVID’s devastating blow to the fishing industry, was to supply the public with off-the-boat fish and locally sourced shellfish. In addition, Hayward wanted to help local fishermen recover from their losses, create new jobs and be of service to the local industry.

The Daily Haul is unique in that customers can order online and pick up fresh-caught fish and seafood at convenient locations around New Hampshire. For Hayward, maintaining high standards in food quality and customer service is a passion.

How did you become a fisherman?
I’ve been on fishing boats ever since I was a kid growing up on the north shore of Massachusetts. My father and uncles all fished, and we joke that saltwater runs through our veins. I moved to the Seacoast after college and continued fishing with my dad until I purchased the F/V Heidi & Elisabeth from him. I’ve done all types — gillnetting, deep sea, lobstering and tuna fishing. I love being out on the water!

Why did you start The Daily Haul?
In April of 2020, when everything was shutting down, there was nowhere to sell my fish. Most grocery stores and large suppliers get their fish from overseas because it is cheaper. Ironically, most of my fish was being sent overseas through fish auctions in Maine. The cost to fish is high, and with no outlets to sell to we were about to shut down. But we noticed a lot of people lining up at the docks to buy lobsters off the boat at the Portsmouth Pier. Fish is a little more complicated — most people want it fileted — so the family jumped in, and in a matter of three weeks we had a name, my brother made us a logo and my sister made us a website to take pre-orders. We’ve been learning as we go ever since.

Describe what a day of fishing is like?
When we were ground fishing, we worked 18-hour days, six months a year, and I needed to take a step back for a bit. Now, for the most part, I am lobstering due to a need to be closer to shore. Before sunrise, we head down to Badger’s Island on Marquis Wharf, where the boat is docked, and take the trip out to the Isle of Shoals to haul in our traps. The boat is slow; it takes about an hour traveling at 9 knots. We go out in most weather — rain or shine, warm or cold — only the wind and high swells will stop us. We normally listen to some ’80s rock and ’90s hip-hop to get us going and have some fun. When we pull traps and unload them, we measure the lobster to make sure its legal size and check to see that it’s not carrying eggs. All fishermen care about the sustainability of the industry, so if we come across a breeding female, even if she no longer has eggs, we notch her tail to alert other lobstermen not to keep it. If all is well, we band the claws and put it in the holding tank. Otherwise, we throw her back in the water. When we return to shore, we unload the lobsters needed for The Daily Haul and send the rest to our wholesaler.

What concerns you most today about the local fishing industry?
Unfortunately, we have seen a huge decline in local fishing driven by a lot of factors: Permits get bought up by larger corporations, and it’s harder to get younger people into the field. We work long hours, and it’s very laborious, sometimes dangerous work. We want to keep the tradition of fishing alive for many generations to come by supporting and selling local seafood.

Have you seen an increasing demand for fish and shellfish?
Yes! COVID really changed things, and there is a heightened awareness around eating local. It’s great living in such a biodiverse area here in the Seacoast, with lots of fresh meat, vegetable farms and fish/shellfish harvesters. When we started The Daily Haul, we were one location in Portsmouth, open one day a week. That quickly grew! There are 11 locations now — in the Seacoast, Southern New Hampshire and the Lakes Region.

What is the most important thing that you want your customers to be aware of?
Not all fish is the same! There is a lack of information available for consumers to understand where their fish is coming from. Not with us; we pride ourselves on delivering the freshest and best-tasting locally caught fish and seafood to our customers year-round.

Sautéed Halibut with Creamed Spinach
Serves 4

Halibut’s dense texture makes it versatile for grilling, baking or pan-frying. Its delicate taste makes it a canvas for a variety of seasonings and sauces. For a pan sauté or for frying, it is important to get the pan smoking hot before adding the fish, which will prevent it from sticking and result in a beautiful crust. Use a trusty instant-read thermometer to ensure that the fish reaches 140°F. Rice or mashed potatoes make a perfect side.

3 tablespoons butter
2 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
¼ cup milk or half & half
2 cups cooked spinach, water squeezed out
½ teaspoon salt
4 halibut steaks (about 6 ounces each), patted dry with paper towels
4 tablespoons lemon-pepper seasoning
2 teaspoons salt

Directions

1. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in a medium saucepan. Stir in the cream cheese and milk and cook just until mixture is smooth. Off the heat, stir in the spinach; keep warm and set aside.
2. Mix the lemon-pepper seasoning and salt together in a small bowl and spread it out on a sheet of wax paper. Place the halibut pieces on top of the seasoning mixture and press it into the fish. Turn the fish over and do the same on the other side. Rub in the mixture evenly on both sides.
3. Heat a sauté pan large enough to hold the fish in a single layer. Melt the remaining 2 tablespoons butter in the pan over medium heat; add the shallots and cook until they begin to turn brown — watch carefully or they will burn. Remove shallots from pan and place in a small bowl.
4. Heat the drippings remaining in the pan over medium high heat. Add the fish skin side up and cook for about 4 minutes on each side, depending on the thickness of the fish. The fish is cooked when an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 140°F.
5. Divide and spread the spinach mixture on each of 4 dinner plates and place the halibut on the bed of spinach. Reheat the shallots and sprinkle them on top of the fish. Serve immediately.

Acqua Pazza
Serves 4

Acqua Pazza, or “Crazy Water,” is a Neapolitan fish dish so called because fishermen often cooked the fish at sea using sea water mixed with wine.

2 tablespoons olive oil
2 cloves garlic, peeled and sliced
1 ½ cups thinly sliced fennel
¼ teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 teaspoon fennel seeds, crushed
1 tablespoon capers in brine, well drained, or capers in salt, well rinsed
2 cups cherry tomatoes cut in half, or one 15-ounce can diced tomatoes
½ cup white wine
½ cup water
½ cup olives in brine, cut in half
Salt to taste
Fresh ground black pepper
4 six-ounce pieces cod fillets
Chopped parsley for sprinkling on top

Directions

1. Heat olive oil in a medium sauté pan and cook the garlic with the fennel until the garlic turns golden brown and the fennel begins to soften. Stir in red pepper flakes and fennel seeds. Add tomatoes and cook until they begin to give off their juice.
2. Raise the heat to high, add the wine and allow most of it to evaporate. Add the water, capers and olives. Cover and simmer for 10 minutes.
3. Place the fish on top of the sauce. Cover and cook until the fish is opaque looking, about 5 minutes, or until it easily flakes with a fork. Add salt and pepper to taste.
4. Serve in bowls with parsley and lots of good bread to mop up the tasty broth.