The Scoop on Gelato

A cool idea to make gelato brings a bit of la dolce vita to Durham.

June 21, 2024

Mary Ann Esposito, John W. Hession, Photographer,

Ceo’s Gelato Bistro owner Carolyn Ottney spent 28 years pursuing a career in finance and subcontract management. In 2015, her passion for gelato — the Italian version of ice cream — motivated her to go in a completely different direction and learn how to make the creamy treat.

She enrolled at Ice Cream University in West Orange, New Jersey, where she learned the basic how-to skills. Later, she spent time in Bologna, Italy, taking master classes in the science behind making gelato.

Once Ottney had confidence in her skills, she began to experiment with different flavor combinations, setting up a commercial kitchen in Dover and making gelato from scratch. Her inspiration, she says, was “fueled by the delicious gelato that I was able to produce, even in those early days.”

Two years ago, Ceo’s Gelato Bistro, formerly located in Portsmouth, moved to Madbury Road in Durham. Just reading the shop’s flavor board is a delight. Standbys like vanilla and chocolate will always be on offer, and the extensive list of other flavors includes such temptations as berry basil, cinnamon chipotle swirl, ricotta and fig, and roasted peach crisp.

Not stopping there, Ottney has been known to whip up more than 50 different kinds of sorbetto. For her, making gelato is a never-ending process of learning and churning. It keeps her going, one scoop at a time!

Mary Ann Esposito [MAE]: What inspired you to make gelato?

Carolyn Ottney [CO]: I must confess that I set my sights on opening a gelato shop long before I had any intention of making it myself! I just really loved the product and felt that it would be the perfect business to own. When I realized that I would have to learn how to make gelato, I started experimenting at home, making it in small batches. Once I got the basics down, I experimented with different flavors, with a plan to have 50 flavors under my belt before starting my business. As I got closer to opening the shop in Portsmouth, I took a class at Ice Cream University, which helped me to make gelato on a larger scale and with the commercial equipment that I would be using once I launched the business.

MAE: Are customers aware that gelato is not ice cream?

CO: Yes! We describe the differences often, and once they try a sample, they can tell that it’s clearly different. Gelato comes from the Italian word “gelare” (to freeze). Ice cream has a minimum of 10% fat, while gelato has about 5% to 7% fat. Also, gelato is churned at a much lower speed than ice cream, so not as much air is whipped into it, which leaves it much denser and creamier. Gelato contains about 25% to 30% air while ice cream can have as much as 50%.

Unfortunately, some people won’t even try gelato because it’s not ice cream! But most are delighted with the texture, the flavor and the fact that it’s even healthier for them. They are also often surprised that they can combine flavors in any size, which they can’t always do with ice cream.

MAE: How do you come up with the flavors?

CO: The menu is continually rotating, and I want to be sure I have a good representation of categories, including fruits, citrus, spices and unique flavorings besides vanilla and chocolate. I now have a pretty extensive list of flavors to draw from, but I also want to continue to experiment with new combinations and ingredients. Some of the bestsellers are butter mint, dark chocolate with raspberry swirl and caramel coconut coffee.

MAE: How is gelato different from sorbetto?

CO: Gelato is dairy-based and sorbetto is dairy-free. Some places call everything they make gelato whether it has dairy or not. In my sorbetto, I often use dairy alternatives such as coconut or almond milk to create a creamier texture or add another level of flavor. There are so many people who are either vegan or lactose intolerant who can’t enjoy gelato that I want to give them plenty of interesting options in sorbetto.

MAE: What are some clever ways you can serve gelato besides the usual cone or dish?

CO: One popular way is in an affogato. We serve it the traditional way, with a fresh shot (or two) of espresso poured over a scoop (or two) of gelato. Or if someone is looking for an iced version, we have iced affogato, which resembles a root beer float with a scoop of gelato floating on top of iced coffee. We also serve sorbetto smoothies and have started offering gelato shakes.

I have also served brioche con gelato, basically a gelato sandwich that uses fresh baked brioche. Croissant con gelato is also amazing. Additionally, I make custom gelato cakes and, occasionally, gelato pies.

Rainbow Gelato Cake
Serves 8 to 10

This layered gelato cake makes a statement with a rainbow of possibilities for color and flavor.

Italian ladyfingers (hard, not soft and cake-like)

3 quarts gelato, each a different flavor and color

Fresh fruit for garnish

Whipped cream (optional)

Directions

1. Line the interior wall of a 9- or 10-inch springform pan with ladyfingers, with the flat cookie side facing inward.
2. Spread a thick layer of gelato in the base of the pan, smoothing it out to the edges.
3. Cover and freeze until the layer of gelato is firm.
4. Spread a second flavor of gelato over the first. Cover and freeze again until firm. Repeat with the third layer.
5. Cover the pan with aluminum foil and freeze until firm.
6. To serve, remove aluminum foil and unlatch the sides of the pan. Allow cake to stand for 5 minutes, or until a knife can easily be inserted. Cut straight down into wedges and serve immediately with fruit and, if desired, whipped cream or your favorite sauce.

Affogato
Serves 2

Affogato, meaning “drowned” or “poached,” is a popular dessert choice on an Italian menu. You can use any flavor, but usually a generous scoop of vanilla, chocolate or hazelnut gelato is served in a cup with very strong espresso.