An Old-Fashioned New England Christmas Dinner

The holidays are all about traditions, some dating from our childhood and some new ones we create over the years. Food is central to those traditions, and whether it be Aunt Martha’s no-fail fruitcake or a new take on the ubiquitous green bean casserole, we all have certain foods we identify with and that connect us with our family and friends.

There is no other place I would rather be for the holidays than at home in New Hampshire. When it comes to what to cook, I lean toward some classic dishes that reflect New England’s past, like country ham, crisp apples, pumpkins, cider, cranberries, molasses, salt pork, beans, corn, seafood and maple syrup. In my mind, comfort foods are best for the holidays; I will leave more complicated choices to others.

Right after Thanksgiving, planning starts for the next big thing … Christmas Day dinner! It is always a challenge, so my strategy is to think of what I can prepare ahead of time. For sure, I can make cranberry and apple pies and freeze them unbaked. On Christmas morning, while presents are opened in a tizzy of excitement, the rock-hard pies can be popped into a cold oven, brought up to temperature and slowly baked so the buttery crusts turn golden brown and flaky, while the fruit fillings tease our senses with the familiar seasonal aroma of cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves that permeates the house.

The star of the table will be a country ham baked with an apple cider glaze and served with applesauce made from the apples gathered from the crooked old Gravenstein apple tree in the backyard, and which we put up in jars for just such a holiday dinner. Golden yellow cornbread muffins will do very nicely with the ham along with rosemary roasted potatoes.

The dessert board is everyone’s favorite. Yes, the pies are a holiday must but so is buttermilk molasses cake, served warm with puffs of sweetened whipped cream and trays of sugar cookies glazed with vanilla frosting and sparkling sprinkles that give them the look of precious jewels. Joe Froggers, gingerbread men (and women) and hermit cookies round out the cookie tray.

Sometimes I feel a nagging temptation to step away from traditional holiday cooking and surprise everyone with something new, leaving old but cherished memories on the back burner . . . maybe next year.

New England Corn Pudding
Serves 6 to 8

Corn pudding is the perfect side dish for a glazed ham, and this one does not disappoint. I have tinkered with a family recipe, subbing honey for the sugar and adding a dash of nutmeg.

½        cup flour

1           teaspoon salt

¼        teaspoon nutmeg

4          eggs

4          cups half-and-half or whole milk

1/3      cup honey

4          tablespoons butter, melted and cooled

4          cups frozen corn kernels

½        cup thinly sliced scallions

1          cup diced sweet potato

1. Preheat oven to 425°F.
2. Butter a 12 x 9 x 2-inch casserole dish and set aside.
3. In a bowl, combine the flour, salt and nutmeg and set aside.
4. In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs until foamy; add the half/half or whole milk and whisk in the honey and melted butter. Stir in the corn kernels and scallions until well combined. Gently stir in the sweet potatoes.
5. Stir the flour, salt and nutmeg into the corn mixture and spread into the casserole dish.
6. Bake for 45 minutes or until nicely browned. Scoop from pan to serve.

Apple Cider Glazed Ham 
Serves 8 to 10

A perfectly glazed ham is the centerpiece of the holiday table. And the bonus is leftovers! Choose a fully cooked bone-in ham, referred to as a city ham, one that is cured with a saltwater solution, flavored with spices and smoked. City hams require minimal baking time for reheating and glazing. When ordering a bone-in ham, plan on ¾ pound per person for a serving.

1. Preheat oven to 350°F.
2. Use a small, sharp knife to make small random slits all over the ham skin, and insert a clove into each slit.
3. In a bowl, combine the cider, sugar, marmalade and mustard until well combined.
4. Place ham cut-side down on a rack in a sturdy oven pan. Brush the top with half of the glaze and bake uncovered 15 minutes per pound. Baste every 10 minutes with the glaze.

To serve:

Remove ham from oven and allow to rest loosely tented with aluminum foil for 20 minutes. Carve the ham and transfer slices to a serving platter. Serve with applesauce or sauce of your choosing.

Note: Suggested garnishes for ham are orange, apple or pineapple slices.

Tip: Save the ham bone to tuck into your next batch of baked beans.

Buttermilk Molasses Cake 
Serves 6 to 8

There is an odd but true story about molasses. On Jan. 15, 1919, a molasses storage tank exploded on the Boston waterfront, releasing more than 2 million gallons of molasses that made its sticky way through the north end of town, destroying everything in its path! This historical tidbit is retold every time I make this moist buttermilk and molasses cake that smells so Christmassy as it bakes.

Butter a 9-inch cake pan or an 8 ¼ x 5 x 2-inch-deep cake mold and set aside.

1/3         cup unsalted butter, softened

½            cup light brown sugar

2             large eggs

1/3         cup molasses

1 ¾         cup all-purpose flour

1             teaspoon baking soda

½            teaspoon salt

1             teaspoon ground cinnamon

½            teaspoon ground ginger

½            teaspoon ground cloves

½            cup buttermilk

1/3         cup diced candied ginger

½            cup diced dried figs

Zest of one large orange

1.  Preheat oven to 350°F.
2.  Cream the butter and sugar together in a large bowl with a handheld mixer.   With the mixer on medium speed, add the eggs one at a time and beat them   in until well blended. Beat in the molasses.
3.  In a separate bowl, sift the flour, baking soda, salt, cinnamon, ginger and   cloves together.
4.  With the mixer on low speed, slowly add the dry ingredients to the batter,   alternating with the buttermilk, just until combined.

5.  Fold in the candied ginger, figs and orange zest.

6.  Bake for 35-40 minutes or until a toothpick inserted into the center of the   cake comes out clean.
7.  Serve warm with a dusting of confectioners sugar, sweetened whipped cream   or fresh fruit.

Holiday Cheeseball 
Serves 12

Remember the holiday nut-encrusted cheese ball sitting majestically on a throne of Bibb lettuce and surrounded by crackers? I elevate the flavor by adding dried fruit like figs and apricots, cranberries, dates and dried pears. Lighten the texture and taste with some mascarpone cheese instead of all cream cheese. This is the perfect before-dinner holiday nibble and a cinch to make a couple days ahead.

8             ounces low-fat cream cheese, at room temperature

8             ounces mascarpone cheese, at room temperature

2             tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1             cup shredded sharp white cheddar cheese

½           cup finely chopped dried figs (about 6)

½           cup diced dried apricots (about 6)

½           cup dried cranberries, raisins or cherries or a combination

½           teaspoon salt

½           teaspoon grated nutmeg

2             cups whole roasted almonds

2             tablespoons melted and cooled apple jelly or marmalade

Powdered sugar for sprinkling
Crackers for serving

1. Combine the cheeses, 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil, figs, apricots, cranberries, raisins or cherries, salt and nutmeg in a large bowl.
2. Divide the mixture in two and scrape each onto two large sheets of plastic wrap. With your hands, form into pine cone shapes. Wrap and refrigerate for a couple of hours.
3. Unwrap and brush each cheese with the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil. Press the almonds into the cheese, covering it completely and keeping the shape of a pine cone.
4. Gently brush the nuts with the melted jelly. Use a small sieve and coat the top in powdered sugar.
5. Serve at room temperature with plain crackers.